Spandex, also known as elastane or Lycra, has revolutionized the world of fashion and activewear. Its incredible stretch and recovery properties make it a favorite for everything from leggings and swimsuits to dance costumes and performance apparel. But what happens when your favorite spandex garment doesn’t fit quite right? Can you tailor spandex? The answer is yes, but with caveats and a healthy dose of understanding. Tailoring spandex requires specialized techniques and a knowledge of the fabric’s unique characteristics. This article will guide you through the intricacies of spandex alterations, providing you with the insights you need to achieve a perfect fit.
Understanding Spandex: The Key to Successful Alterations
Before diving into the how-to, it’s crucial to understand what makes spandex so special – and so challenging to alter. Spandex is a synthetic fiber known for its exceptional elasticity. It can stretch several times its original length and then snap back to its original shape. This remarkable property is due to its unique molecular structure, which consists of long, chain-like molecules that are coiled and cross-linked.
This inherent stretch and recovery also mean that spandex behaves differently than traditional woven fabrics. When cut, it tends to roll and curl. When sewn, it requires specialized stitches and techniques to maintain its elasticity and prevent puckering or distortion.
The Composition of Spandex Blends
It’s rare to find garments made entirely of spandex. Typically, spandex is blended with other fibers such as cotton, nylon, polyester, or rayon. The percentage of spandex in the blend can vary widely, affecting the fabric’s stretch, recovery, and overall behavior. A higher spandex content generally means more stretch and more challenges during alterations.
For instance, a garment made of 90% polyester and 10% spandex will behave differently than one made of 80% nylon and 20% spandex. The type of blend influences the type of needle, thread, and stitch needed for successful alterations.
Essential Tools and Techniques for Spandex Alterations
Tailoring spandex requires a different set of tools and techniques compared to altering traditional fabrics. Using the wrong tools can result in skipped stitches, distorted seams, and even damage to the fabric.
Choosing the Right Sewing Machine Needle
The first crucial step is selecting the right needle. A ballpoint or stretch needle is essential for sewing spandex. These needles have a rounded tip that pushes the fibers aside rather than piercing them, preventing runs and snags. The size of the needle will depend on the weight of the fabric. A size 70/10 or 75/11 is typically suitable for lightweight spandex blends, while a size 80/12 or 90/14 may be needed for heavier fabrics.
Selecting the Appropriate Thread
The thread you use is equally important. Polyester thread is generally recommended for sewing spandex because it has some stretch and won’t break easily. Cotton thread lacks elasticity and can snap when the fabric is stretched. Choose a high-quality thread that is strong and durable.
Mastering the Stretch Stitch
The most important technique for sewing spandex is using a stretch stitch. A zigzag stitch, a three-step zigzag stitch, or an overlock (serger) stitch are all excellent choices. These stitches allow the seam to stretch along with the fabric, preventing the seams from popping or restricting movement. A straight stitch is almost always a no-go with spandex.
- Zigzag Stitch: This stitch provides good stretch and is readily available on most sewing machines. Adjust the stitch width and length to suit the fabric.
- Three-Step Zigzag Stitch: This stitch is even more elastic than a regular zigzag stitch and is ideal for areas that require a lot of stretch.
- Overlock (Serger) Stitch: A serger creates a professional-looking seam that is both strong and stretchy. It also trims the fabric edges, preventing fraying.
Controlling Fabric Movement
Spandex has a tendency to stretch and slip while sewing, which can lead to uneven seams. To prevent this, use a walking foot or a Teflon foot on your sewing machine. A walking foot has feed dogs that help grip the fabric and feed it evenly through the machine. A Teflon foot has a smooth surface that allows the fabric to glide easily.
Another helpful technique is to use tissue paper or stabilizer underneath the fabric while sewing. This provides extra support and prevents the fabric from stretching out of shape. Simply tear away the tissue paper or stabilizer after sewing.
Pinning and Cutting Spandex
When pinning spandex, use fine pins to avoid leaving holes in the fabric. Place the pins close together to prevent the fabric from shifting. When cutting spandex, use a rotary cutter and a cutting mat for accurate and smooth cuts. A sharp pair of scissors can also be used, but be sure to cut along the grain of the fabric to prevent distortion.
Common Spandex Alterations and How to Tackle Them
While the general principles of spandex alterations remain consistent, different types of alterations require specific approaches. Here are some common alterations and tips for handling them:
Taking in Spandex Leggings or Pants
Taking in spandex leggings or pants can be tricky because you need to maintain the garment’s shape and elasticity. The key is to take in the seams evenly and use a stretch stitch.
- Pinning: Put on the leggings or pants inside out and pin along the side seams, taking in the desired amount. Make sure the pins are evenly spaced and that the fabric is smooth.
- Sewing: Remove the leggings or pants and sew along the pinned lines using a zigzag stitch or a serger. Start and end each seam with a backstitch to secure the threads.
- Trimming: Trim the excess fabric close to the seam, leaving about 1/4 inch.
- Finishing: Finish the raw edges of the seam with a serger or a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
Shortening Spandex Hems
Shortening spandex hems requires careful attention to detail to prevent the hem from rolling or puckering.
- Measuring: Measure the desired hem length and mark it with pins or tailor’s chalk.
- Cutting: Cut off the excess fabric, leaving about 1 inch for the hem allowance.
- Folding: Fold the hem up twice, creating a double-folded hem. This will prevent the raw edge from fraying.
- Pinning: Pin the hem in place, making sure the fabric is smooth and even.
- Sewing: Sew the hem using a zigzag stitch or a coverstitch machine. A coverstitch machine creates a professional-looking hem that is both stretchy and durable.
Adjusting Spandex Bodices or Dresses
Adjusting spandex bodices or dresses can be more complex, especially if there are darts or princess seams. The key is to maintain the garment’s shape and fit while accommodating the stretch of the fabric.
- Pinning: Put on the dress or bodice inside out and pin along the seams that need to be adjusted. Make sure the pins are evenly spaced and that the fabric is smooth.
- Sewing: Remove the dress or bodice and sew along the pinned lines using a zigzag stitch or a serger.
- Fitting: Try on the dress or bodice again to check the fit. Make any necessary adjustments.
- Trimming: Trim the excess fabric close to the seam, leaving about 1/4 inch.
- Finishing: Finish the raw edges of the seam with a serger or a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
When adjusting darts, be sure to maintain the original shape of the dart. When adjusting princess seams, be sure to blend the seams smoothly to avoid creating any bumps or distortions.
When to Seek Professional Help
While many spandex alterations can be done at home, some alterations are best left to a professional tailor. Complex alterations such as altering the shape of a garment, adding sleeves, or working with delicate fabrics require specialized skills and equipment.
If you are unsure about your ability to alter a spandex garment, it is always best to seek professional help. A skilled tailor can ensure that the alteration is done correctly and that the garment retains its original shape and fit. Furthermore, expensive or sentimental items should always be handled by professionals to avoid potentially ruining them.
Tips for Maintaining Altered Spandex Garments
Once you’ve successfully altered your spandex garment, it’s important to take proper care of it to maintain its shape and elasticity.
- Washing: Wash spandex garments in cold water on a gentle cycle. Avoid using harsh detergents or bleach, as these can damage the fibers.
- Drying: Tumble dry on low heat or hang to dry. Avoid using high heat, as this can cause the fabric to shrink or lose its elasticity.
- Ironing: Iron spandex garments on a low setting. Use a pressing cloth to protect the fabric from direct heat.
- Storage: Store spandex garments folded or hung up. Avoid storing them in direct sunlight, as this can cause the fabric to fade.
The Future of Spandex Alterations
As spandex continues to be a popular fabric choice for clothing, the demand for spandex alterations will likely increase. New technologies and techniques are constantly being developed to make spandex alterations easier and more efficient. For example, some sewing machines now have specialized settings for sewing spandex, making it easier to achieve professional-looking results.
Furthermore, there is a growing trend towards sustainable fashion, which includes repairing and altering existing garments rather than buying new ones. This trend is likely to further increase the demand for spandex alterations.
In conclusion, tailoring spandex is possible with the right tools, techniques, and knowledge. By understanding the fabric’s unique properties and using appropriate methods, you can successfully alter your spandex garments and achieve a perfect fit. Whether you’re taking in leggings, shortening hems, or adjusting bodices, remember to take your time, be patient, and always prioritize the fabric’s elasticity. And when in doubt, don’t hesitate to seek professional help from a skilled tailor. With a little practice and perseverance, you can master the art of spandex alterations and enjoy your favorite garments for years to come.
Can you tailor spandex fabric at all?
Spandex, due to its highly elastic nature, presents unique challenges when tailoring. Unlike traditional woven fabrics, spandex stretches significantly, making it difficult to cut and sew accurately. However, it is indeed possible to tailor spandex, but it requires specialized techniques, the right tools, and a good understanding of how the fabric behaves under tension. Ignoring these factors can lead to distorted seams, puckering, and a final garment that doesn’t fit properly.
The key to successful spandex alterations lies in stabilizing the fabric, using the correct type of needle and thread, and employing a stretch stitch or a zig-zag stitch. It’s also crucial to avoid stretching the fabric while sewing, as this will cause the seams to ripple when the garment is worn. With patience and the proper approach, you can achieve well-fitting and professional-looking alterations on spandex garments.
What type of needle should I use when sewing spandex?
The ideal needle for sewing spandex is a ballpoint or stretch needle. These needles have a rounded tip that gently pushes between the fibers of the fabric rather than piercing them directly. This minimizes the risk of damaging the delicate fibers of spandex and prevents skipped stitches, which are a common problem when using a standard universal needle. The size of the needle will depend on the weight of the spandex fabric, but a size 75/11 or 80/12 is generally a good starting point.
Using the correct needle is paramount to preventing runs and snags in your spandex garment. A universal needle, designed for woven fabrics, can easily damage the elastic fibers, leading to weakened seams and potential holes. Investing in a set of ballpoint or stretch needles will not only improve the quality of your stitching but also extend the lifespan of your spandex clothing.
What kind of stitch works best for spandex alterations?
A stretch stitch is the optimal choice for sewing spandex as it is specifically designed to accommodate the fabric’s elasticity. This type of stitch, often represented by a lightning bolt symbol on sewing machines, allows the seam to stretch without breaking the thread. If your machine doesn’t have a dedicated stretch stitch, a narrow zig-zag stitch is an excellent alternative. The zig-zag stitch provides the necessary give and flexibility, preventing the seams from becoming tight and uncomfortable when the garment is stretched.
When using a zig-zag stitch, it’s important to adjust the stitch width and length to suit the fabric. A narrower width and a shorter length generally work best, creating a more secure and less bulky seam. Always test the stitch on a scrap piece of fabric before working on the actual garment to ensure the settings are correct and the stitch provides sufficient stretch and durability.
How do I stabilize spandex fabric before sewing?
Stabilizing spandex is crucial to prevent it from stretching excessively during the sewing process. There are several methods you can use, depending on the specific needs of your project. One common technique is to use a lightweight fusible interfacing on the seam allowances. This adds a layer of stability without significantly affecting the fabric’s stretch. Another option is to use a wash-away stabilizer, which is applied to the fabric before sewing and then dissolved in water afterward.
For areas that require more support, such as necklines or armholes, elastic stay tape can be sewn into the seam allowance. This tape provides a stable edge that prevents the fabric from stretching out of shape. When applying any stabilizer, it’s important to test it on a scrap piece of fabric first to ensure it doesn’t alter the fabric’s hand or appearance. Proper stabilization will result in cleaner seams and a more professional finish.
What type of thread should I use for spandex alterations?
The best type of thread for sewing spandex is a polyester thread, specifically designed for stretch fabrics. Polyester thread has a slight give, allowing it to stretch with the fabric without breaking. This is essential for maintaining the integrity of the seams and preventing them from snapping under tension. Avoid using cotton thread, as it lacks the necessary elasticity and is more likely to break when the spandex is stretched.
While choosing polyester thread, consider the weight of the fabric. A finer thread is generally suitable for lightweight spandex, while a heavier thread is better for thicker, more durable fabrics. Always use a high-quality thread from a reputable brand to ensure consistent performance and prevent shredding or breakage during sewing. Matching the thread color to the fabric is also important for a seamless and professional finish.
How do I prevent the fabric from stretching while sewing?
Preventing the fabric from stretching during sewing is vital for achieving accurate and professional-looking alterations on spandex. Avoid pulling or stretching the fabric while it’s under the presser foot. Let the sewing machine feed the fabric naturally without any added tension. Reduce the presser foot pressure if your machine allows it, as this can help prevent the fabric from being stretched as it moves through the machine.
Pinning or basting the seams together before sewing can also help to minimize stretching. Use fine pins to avoid damaging the fabric, and place them close together for added stability. If you’re working with a particularly stretchy fabric, consider using a walking foot attachment on your sewing machine. This foot helps to feed both layers of fabric evenly, preventing one layer from being stretched more than the other.
What are common mistakes people make when tailoring spandex?
One of the most common mistakes is using the wrong type of needle and thread. Using a universal needle can damage the spandex fibers, leading to runs and snags, while using cotton thread can result in seams that break easily. Another frequent error is stretching the fabric while sewing, which distorts the seams and causes them to ripple when the garment is worn. Additionally, skipping the stabilization step can lead to inaccurate cutting and sewing, resulting in a poorly fitting garment.
Failing to test the stitch and settings on a scrap piece of fabric before working on the actual garment is also a common oversight. Different spandex fabrics have different properties, and it’s essential to adjust the stitch length, width, and tension accordingly. Furthermore, attempting to make overly complex alterations without sufficient experience can lead to frustration and unsatisfactory results. Starting with simple alterations and gradually progressing to more challenging projects is the best approach for mastering spandex tailoring.