Bleaching your hair is a transformative process, allowing you to achieve stunning blonde shades or create a vibrant canvas for other colorful dyes. However, it’s also a chemical procedure that can damage your hair if not done correctly. Understanding the process, particularly where to begin the application, is crucial for achieving even results and minimizing damage. So, what part of the hair do you bleach first? The answer isn’t always straightforward and depends on various factors, which we’ll explore in detail.
Understanding Hair Bleaching Basics
Before diving into the application specifics, let’s establish a fundamental understanding of hair bleaching. Bleach, typically a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and an alkaline booster (developer), works by opening the hair cuticle and oxidizing the melanin, the pigment that gives hair its color. This process lightens the hair, preparing it for a new color or a lighter shade.
The strength of the developer used influences the speed and extent of lightening. Higher volumes lift more quickly but can also cause more damage. Lower volumes are gentler but require more time and might not achieve the desired lightness in one application. Choosing the right developer is crucial for balancing effective lightening with hair health.
Why the Application Order Matters
The order in which you apply bleach directly affects the final result. Applying it correctly helps prevent unevenness, banding (where different sections of hair are different colors), and excessive damage. The goal is to ensure that all parts of the hair process for the appropriate amount of time to reach the desired level of lightness. This is because different sections of your hair process at different rates due to proximity to the scalp and previous treatments.
Heat from the scalp accelerates the bleaching process. Hair closer to the scalp will lighten faster than hair further away. This is a crucial consideration when deciding where to start the application. Virgin hair, or hair that hasn’t been previously treated with chemicals, usually requires a different approach compared to previously colored or bleached hair. Bleached hair is already more porous and processes faster.
Where to Begin: Virgin Hair
Virgin hair, meaning hair that hasn’t been previously colored, permed, or chemically treated, presents a relatively clean slate. However, even with virgin hair, the heat from the scalp plays a significant role.
When bleaching virgin hair, it’s generally recommended to start the application in the mid-lengths and ends, leaving about an inch or two of roots untouched. This approach accounts for the scalp’s heat, which will cause the roots to lighten much faster than the rest of the hair.
After applying the bleach to the mid-lengths and ends, carefully monitor the lightening process. Once the mid-lengths and ends have lifted to the desired level, or are close to it, apply the bleach to the roots. This ensures that the roots don’t become significantly lighter than the rest of the hair, avoiding a “hot roots” effect.
The timing for root application depends on the developer volume and the hair’s natural color. Regular checks are essential to avoid over-processing.
Where to Begin: Previously Colored or Bleached Hair
Bleaching previously colored or bleached hair requires a more cautious approach. This type of hair is already more porous and fragile, making it more susceptible to damage. Applying bleach to previously treated hair can lead to breakage, dryness, and uneven color.
For previously colored or bleached hair, the best approach is to only bleach the new growth (the roots) that hasn’t been previously treated. This prevents over-processing the already lightened sections.
Isolate the new growth carefully. Apply the bleach precisely to the roots, avoiding overlap with the previously bleached sections. Overlapping bleach on already lightened hair can cause significant damage and breakage. Monitor the lightening process closely. Because the previously treated hair is more porous, it can also affect how the bleach processes on the new growth.
If the goal is to lighten the entire head, and the previously bleached hair has faded or become dull, consider using a toner or a very gentle bleach wash on the lengths to refresh the color, rather than applying a full bleach application. Always prioritize the health of your hair.
Dealing with Banding
Banding refers to uneven color distribution in the hair, often appearing as distinct bands of different shades. This can happen when the bleach isn’t applied evenly or when different sections of the hair process for different amounts of time.
If you have banding, it’s crucial to correct it carefully. Applying bleach only to the darker bands can help even out the color. Isolate the bands that need lightening and apply the bleach precisely to those areas.
Consider using a lower volume developer on the darker bands to minimize damage. Monitor the lightening process closely. It may require multiple applications to achieve an even result.
In some cases, toning can help blend the different shades and minimize the appearance of banding. A professional color correction might be necessary if the banding is severe.
Essential Tips for Successful Bleaching
Regardless of your hair type or previous treatments, following these essential tips can significantly improve your chances of achieving successful bleaching results while minimizing damage.
Perform a strand test before bleaching your entire head. This will allow you to assess how your hair reacts to the bleach and determine the appropriate processing time. Apply the bleach to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair, following the same procedure you plan to use for the entire head.
Use a high-quality bleach and developer. Investing in professional-grade products can make a significant difference in the final result and the health of your hair. Cheap products often contain harsh chemicals that can cause excessive damage.
Protect your skin and clothing. Wear gloves and an old t-shirt to prevent stains. Apply a barrier cream, such as petroleum jelly, along your hairline to protect your skin from irritation.
Apply the bleach quickly and evenly. Work in small sections to ensure that all parts of the hair are thoroughly saturated. Use a tint brush to apply the bleach precisely and evenly.
Monitor the lightening process closely. Check the hair every few minutes to ensure that it’s lightening evenly and that it’s not becoming over-processed. Use a timer to track the processing time.
Don’t exceed the recommended processing time. Over-processing can cause severe damage and breakage. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.
Rinse thoroughly with cool water. Cool water helps to close the hair cuticle and prevent further damage. Rinse the hair until the water runs clear.
Use a deep conditioner or hair mask after bleaching. Bleaching can strip the hair of its natural moisture. Replenishing moisture is essential for maintaining healthy hair.
Avoid heat styling after bleaching. Heat can further damage the hair. Allow your hair to air dry whenever possible. If you must use heat styling tools, use a low heat setting and apply a heat protectant.
Wait at least two weeks before bleaching again. Bleaching too frequently can cause severe damage. Give your hair time to recover between treatments.
Seek professional help if you’re unsure. Bleaching your hair can be tricky, especially if you have previously colored or damaged hair. If you’re not confident in your ability to bleach your hair safely and effectively, consult a professional hairstylist.
Maintenance After Bleaching
Bleached hair requires extra care and attention to maintain its health and appearance. Implementing a proper hair care routine is essential.
Use sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner. Sulfates can strip the hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness and damage. Opt for sulfate-free products that are specifically designed for color-treated hair.
Use a purple shampoo or toner to maintain the desired tone. Bleached hair can often develop brassy or yellow tones over time. Purple shampoo and toners can help neutralize these unwanted tones and keep the hair looking bright and vibrant.
Apply a leave-in conditioner or hair oil to add moisture and shine. Bleached hair tends to be dry and brittle. Leave-in conditioners and hair oils can help replenish moisture, reduce frizz, and add shine.
Get regular trims to remove split ends. Split ends can travel up the hair shaft and cause further damage. Trimming your hair regularly will help keep it healthy and prevent breakage.
Protect your hair from the sun. UV rays can damage bleached hair and cause it to fade. Wear a hat or use a hair product with UV protection when spending time in the sun.
Avoid swimming in chlorinated water. Chlorine can damage bleached hair and cause it to turn green. If you must swim in chlorinated water, wet your hair first and apply a leave-in conditioner to create a barrier.
Bleaching your hair can be a rewarding experience, but it’s crucial to approach it with knowledge and caution. Understanding the principles of hair lightening, the importance of application order, and the specific needs of your hair type will help you achieve your desired results while minimizing damage. Remember to prioritize the health of your hair and consult a professional if you have any doubts.
What factors should I consider when deciding where to bleach my hair first?
When deciding where to bleach your hair first, consider the overall desired effect and the current condition of your hair. Virgin hair (hair that has never been chemically treated) processes bleach faster than previously treated hair. Therefore, if you’re aiming for an all-over lighter shade, it’s often recommended to start with the areas that are naturally darker or less damaged. This ensures a more even lift across the entire head.
Also, think about the style you’re aiming for. For example, if you’re doing balayage or ombre, the application will differ significantly from a root touch-up or a full head bleach. The hair around the face is often finer and can lift more quickly, so you might choose to leave that section until later in the process to avoid over-processing and damage. Carefully assessing these factors will help you achieve your desired result while minimizing potential harm to your hair.
Why is it generally recommended not to start bleaching at the roots?
It’s generally recommended to avoid starting the bleaching process directly at the roots for several reasons. The heat from your scalp naturally accelerates the lightening process. Applying bleach directly to the roots first can lead to “hot roots,” where the roots lift much faster and appear significantly lighter than the rest of your hair. This results in an uneven and often undesirable color gradient.
Furthermore, the scalp’s natural oils provide a protective barrier. Applying bleach directly to the scalp increases the risk of irritation, burns, and even chemical damage. Starting a bit away from the roots (usually around half an inch) and then going back to the roots later in the process allows for more controlled lifting and minimizes the potential for scalp irritation and uneven color.
What are ‘hot roots’ and how can I prevent them during the bleaching process?
‘Hot roots’ refer to a situation where the roots of your hair become significantly lighter and brighter than the rest of your hair after bleaching. This happens because the heat from your scalp accelerates the bleaching process, causing the roots to lighten more quickly. The result is an uneven color gradient that can be quite noticeable and undesirable.
To prevent hot roots, avoid applying bleach directly to your roots at the beginning of the bleaching process. Instead, start applying the bleach about half an inch away from your scalp and work your way down the hair shaft. After the rest of your hair has processed for a sufficient amount of time, you can then apply the bleach to the roots, usually within the last 10-15 minutes of the total processing time. This will ensure a more even lift and prevent the roots from becoming disproportionately lighter.
How does hair porosity affect where I should start bleaching?
Hair porosity, which refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture, significantly impacts how quickly bleach processes. High porosity hair, with a more open cuticle, tends to absorb bleach faster and is more prone to damage. Low porosity hair, with a tightly closed cuticle, takes longer to absorb bleach and may require more processing time.
Therefore, if you have high porosity hair, you should start bleaching in the areas that are less damaged or need less lifting, leaving the most damaged or delicate areas for last. Conversely, if you have low porosity hair, start with the areas that are most resistant to lightening, allowing them sufficient time to process before moving on to other sections. Tailoring your bleaching application based on your hair’s porosity ensures a more even and predictable result, minimizing the risk of over-processing or uneven color.
What’s the best approach for bleaching virgin hair versus previously dyed hair?
Bleaching virgin hair (hair that hasn’t been chemically treated) generally results in a faster and more even lift because the hair cuticle is intact and hasn’t been compromised by previous treatments. With virgin hair, you can typically start the bleaching process a bit further away from the roots and then apply to the roots during the latter part of the processing time.
Bleaching previously dyed hair is more complex. The hair cuticle has already been altered, and the presence of artificial pigments can affect how the bleach lifts. In this case, it’s often best to start with the areas that have the most color buildup or are furthest away from your desired shade. Monitor the hair closely throughout the process, and be prepared to use a lower volume developer and/or multiple sessions to achieve the desired result while minimizing damage. A strand test is highly recommended before bleaching previously dyed hair.
If I’m doing a root touch-up, where should I apply the bleach first?
When performing a root touch-up, the primary goal is to match the color of the new growth to the previously bleached hair. Therefore, you should apply the bleach directly to the new growth at the roots first. This ensures that the new growth has sufficient time to lift to the same level as the rest of your hair.
Be careful not to overlap the bleach onto the previously bleached hair, as this can lead to over-processing and breakage. Apply the bleach precisely to the new growth, being mindful of the scalp’s heat accelerating the process. Regularly check the color development to ensure that the roots are lifting evenly and at the desired pace. Use a lower volume developer for root touch-ups to minimize damage and achieve a consistent color match.
What safety precautions should I take before starting the bleaching process, regardless of where I start applying the bleach?
Before starting any bleaching process, prioritize your safety. Always perform a patch test at least 48 hours beforehand to check for any allergic reactions or sensitivities to the bleach. Wear gloves throughout the entire process to protect your hands from chemical burns and irritation. Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes.
Protect your clothing and surrounding surfaces from bleach stains by wearing an old shirt or using a salon cape. Read and carefully follow the instructions provided with your bleach kit or developer. Having all necessary tools and supplies ready before you begin will prevent delays and ensure a smoother, safer bleaching experience. Never leave bleach on for longer than the recommended processing time, and monitor your hair’s condition closely throughout the process.