Achieving vibrant, stunning purple hair often begins with a crucial first step: bleaching. Bleaching lifts the natural pigment from your hair, creating a blank canvas for the purple dye to truly shine. However, bleaching can be damaging if not done correctly. This comprehensive guide will walk you through the process step-by-step, ensuring you achieve the perfect base for your dream purple locks while minimizing damage.
Understanding the Bleaching Process and its Effects
Bleaching involves using chemicals to open the hair cuticle and remove the melanin, which is responsible for your hair’s natural color. The process uses an oxidizing agent, typically hydrogen peroxide, and an alkalizing agent, often ammonia, to achieve this. The strength of the bleach is determined by the volume of hydrogen peroxide used. Higher volumes lift color faster but also cause more damage.
The impact of bleaching on your hair depends on several factors including your natural hair color, hair thickness, and the strength of the bleach used. Darker hair naturally requires stronger bleach and more processing time to achieve a light enough base for purple dye. This can lead to dryness, brittleness, and increased porosity. Understanding these potential effects is crucial for taking preventative measures and ensuring the health of your hair.
Preparing Your Hair for Bleaching
Proper preparation is key to minimizing damage during the bleaching process. This involves strengthening your hair and protecting your scalp.
Strengthening Your Hair with Deep Conditioning Treatments
Weeks before bleaching, incorporate deep conditioning treatments into your hair care routine. Look for products containing protein, keratin, or moisturizing ingredients like shea butter or coconut oil. These treatments help to rebuild the hair’s protein structure and improve its overall strength and elasticity. Consistent deep conditioning can significantly reduce breakage and dryness during bleaching.
Protecting Your Scalp
A healthy scalp is essential for healthy hair. Avoid washing your hair for one to two days before bleaching. This allows natural oils to accumulate, providing a protective barrier against the harsh chemicals. You can also apply a scalp oil like coconut oil or argan oil an hour before bleaching to further protect your scalp. Never bleach your hair if your scalp is irritated or has open wounds.
Gathering Your Supplies
Before you begin, gather all the necessary supplies:
- Bleach powder: Choose a bleach powder suitable for your hair type and desired level of lift.
- Developer: Select the appropriate developer volume (10, 20, 30, or 40) based on your hair color and desired results. Lower volumes are less damaging but lift less color.
- Mixing bowl: Use a non-metallic bowl to avoid chemical reactions.
- Applicator brush: A tint brush will help you apply the bleach evenly.
- Gloves: Protect your hands from the chemicals.
- Old towel: Cover your shoulders to protect your clothing.
- Hair clips: Sectioning clips will help you divide your hair for even application.
- Timer: Essential for monitoring the processing time.
- Toner (optional): If your hair pulls too yellow after bleaching, toner can help neutralize the yellow tones.
- Purple shampoo and conditioner: To maintain your purple color after dyeing.
The Bleaching Process: A Step-by-Step Guide
Follow these steps carefully to ensure a successful and relatively safe bleaching experience.
Strand Test
Before applying bleach to your entire head, perform a strand test. This will help you determine the appropriate processing time and assess how your hair reacts to the bleach. Select a small, hidden section of hair, mix the bleach according to the instructions, and apply it to the strand. Monitor the strand every few minutes and rinse it off when it reaches the desired level of lightness. The strand test is crucial for preventing unwanted surprises and minimizing potential damage.
Mixing the Bleach
In your non-metallic bowl, mix the bleach powder and developer according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The ratio of bleach powder to developer varies depending on the product, so it’s crucial to follow the directions carefully. Mix thoroughly until you achieve a smooth, creamy consistency. Avoid lumps, as they can cause uneven bleaching.
Sectioning Your Hair
Divide your hair into four sections: two in the front and two in the back. Use hair clips to keep each section separate. This will ensure that you apply the bleach evenly and thoroughly. For thicker hair, you may need to create more sections.
Applying the Bleach
Starting at the roots, apply the bleach mixture to each section of your hair using the applicator brush. Work quickly and evenly, saturating each strand with the bleach. Avoid overlapping bleach onto previously bleached hair, as this can cause breakage. Leave about ½ inch of roots unbleached initially as they process faster due to the heat from your scalp. Once you’ve applied to all sections, go back and apply the bleach to your roots.
Processing Time
Monitor your hair closely during the processing time. Check the strand test results to guide your decision on how long to leave the bleach in. Generally, the processing time ranges from 20 to 45 minutes, depending on the volume of developer and your hair’s natural color. Check a strand every 10 minutes to see how the color is lifting. Never leave the bleach in for longer than the recommended time.
Rinsing and Toning (If Necessary)
Once your hair has reached the desired level of lightness, rinse it thoroughly with cool water. Ensure that all the bleach is completely removed. If your hair is still too yellow or orange after bleaching, you can use a toner to neutralize these unwanted tones. Apply the toner according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Deep Conditioning After Bleaching
After rinsing out the bleach or toner, apply a deep conditioning treatment to your hair. Leave the treatment in for at least 20 minutes to help restore moisture and repair damage. Rinse thoroughly with cool water. This is a crucial step for preventing breakage and maintaining the health of your hair.
Choosing the Right Developer Volume
Selecting the correct developer volume is essential for achieving the desired results while minimizing damage. Here’s a breakdown of the different volumes and their uses:
- 10 Volume: This is the weakest developer and provides minimal lift. It’s best for toning, depositing color, or gently lifting hair that is already very light.
- 20 Volume: This is a versatile developer that provides moderate lift. It’s suitable for lifting one to two levels and is ideal for fine or damaged hair.
- 30 Volume: This developer provides significant lift and is suitable for lifting two to three levels. Use with caution, as it can cause damage if not used correctly.
- 40 Volume: This is the strongest developer and provides the most lift. It’s typically used for lifting dark hair or achieving platinum blonde. This volume is highly damaging and should only be used by experienced professionals.
Post-Bleach Hair Care: Maintaining Healthy Hair
Bleached hair requires special care to maintain its health and vibrancy. Incorporate these tips into your routine:
Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo and Conditioner
Sulfate-free shampoos are gentler on bleached hair and help to prevent color fading. Look for products specifically designed for color-treated hair.
Limit Heat Styling
Heat styling can further damage bleached hair, leading to dryness and breakage. Minimize the use of heat tools like straighteners, curling irons, and hair dryers. When you do use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray.
Deep Condition Regularly
Continue using deep conditioning treatments at least once a week to keep your hair moisturized and strong.
Use Purple Shampoo and Conditioner
Purple shampoo and conditioner help to neutralize yellow tones and keep your purple hair vibrant. Use them once or twice a week, or as needed, to maintain your color. Overuse can lead to a purplish tinge.
Get Regular Trims
Regular trims remove split ends and prevent them from traveling up the hair shaft, causing further damage. Aim to get a trim every six to eight weeks.
Applying the Purple Dye
Once your hair is properly bleached and toned (if necessary), you can apply the purple dye. Choose a high-quality dye specifically designed for bleached hair. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully, and apply the dye evenly to your hair. Allow the dye to process for the recommended time, and then rinse thoroughly with cool water.
Remember that purple hair dye can fade quickly, so it’s important to use color-safe products and minimize washing your hair. Dry shampoo can be a lifesaver between washes. Proper bleaching and post-dye care are crucial for achieving a long-lasting and vibrant purple hue.
What are the essential supplies I need before I start bleaching my hair?
Before embarking on your bleaching journey, ensure you have all the necessary supplies to protect your hair and achieve the desired results. Gather a bleach kit (containing developer and bleaching powder), a toner (if needed to neutralize yellow tones), a color-safe shampoo and conditioner, a non-metallic mixing bowl, a tint brush, gloves, a towel to protect your clothing, and coconut oil or another protective oil to apply to your scalp. Having everything readily available will make the process smoother and more efficient.
In addition to the bleaching and toning essentials, consider these important protective items: old clothes you don’t mind staining, a shower cap, hair clips to section your hair, and a timer. It’s also crucial to have a moisturizing hair mask or deep conditioner ready to replenish lost moisture after bleaching. Prepare your workspace by covering surfaces to prevent bleach stains and ensuring good ventilation.
How do I perform a strand test and why is it so important?
A strand test involves applying the bleach mixture to a small, inconspicuous section of your hair, such as underneath, to assess how your hair reacts. Mix a small amount of the bleach and developer according to the kit instructions and apply it to the test strand. Monitor the strand closely, checking for any signs of damage or breakage. This test allows you to determine how long it takes for your hair to reach the desired level of lightness, and more importantly, whether your hair can withstand the bleaching process without excessive damage.
The strand test is crucial for several reasons. It helps you avoid potential disasters like severely damaged or broken hair. It allows you to adjust the bleach strength or processing time based on your hair’s unique response. Furthermore, it provides a preview of the final color outcome, ensuring that your hair will lift to the necessary level for the purple dye to show vibrantly. Skipping this step is a gamble that could result in significant hair damage and a disappointing final color.
What developer volume should I use for bleaching my hair, and how does it affect the process?
The volume of developer refers to its strength, which determines how quickly and effectively it lifts color from your hair. Lower volumes, such as 10 or 20 volume, are gentler and cause less damage, making them suitable for lifting only a few shades or for fine, fragile hair. Higher volumes, like 30 or 40 volume, lift color more quickly and intensely, but they also increase the risk of damage. If your hair is already light or you only need a slight lift, a lower volume is recommended.
The choice of developer volume depends on your hair’s starting color, its condition, and the desired level of lightness. Darker hair may require a higher volume developer to achieve a sufficiently light base for vibrant purple. However, always prioritize hair health and opt for the lowest volume necessary to reach your goal. Multiple lower-volume bleaching sessions are often preferable to a single session with a high-volume developer to minimize damage.
How long should I leave the bleach on my hair to achieve the desired lightness?
The processing time for bleach varies significantly depending on your hair’s starting color, texture, and the developer volume used. Start by checking your hair every 10 minutes, gently wiping away the bleach from a small section to assess the color. The goal is to lift your hair to a pale yellow or platinum blonde, depending on the shade of purple you intend to use. Avoid exceeding the maximum recommended processing time specified in the bleach kit instructions, as this can lead to severe damage.
Remember that patience is key when bleaching your hair. Rushing the process or exceeding the recommended time can result in brittle, damaged hair. Once your hair reaches the desired lightness, thoroughly rinse it with cool water and apply a neutralizing shampoo or toner to remove any remaining bleach residue and unwanted yellow tones. Always follow up with a deep conditioning treatment to restore moisture and strength to your hair.
How do I properly tone my hair after bleaching, and why is it important?
Toning is the process of neutralizing unwanted yellow or orange tones in bleached hair. After bleaching, hair often has brassy undertones that can interfere with the vibrancy of the purple dye. To tone, select a toner with a violet or blue base, depending on the undertones you need to neutralize. Follow the instructions on the toner package, applying it evenly to your hair and allowing it to process for the recommended time.
Toning is crucial because it creates a clean, neutral base for your purple dye. Without toning, the yellow or orange tones in your hair can muddy the purple color, resulting in a dull or brassy appearance. A well-toned base allows the purple dye to adhere properly and display its true vibrancy and intensity. Choose a toner specifically formulated for bleached hair and always perform a strand test before applying it to your entire head.
What kind of purple hair dye should I use after bleaching, and how do I apply it?
There are various types of purple hair dye available, including semi-permanent, demi-permanent, and permanent options. Semi-permanent dyes are the gentlest and last the shortest amount of time, making them ideal for experimenting with different shades. Demi-permanent dyes offer more longevity and better coverage than semi-permanent dyes. Permanent dyes provide the most long-lasting color but can also be more damaging to your hair. Choose a dye that suits your desired color intensity and commitment level.
To apply the purple dye, start with clean, dry hair. Wear gloves to protect your hands and apply the dye evenly from roots to ends, using a tint brush or your fingers (if instructed by the dye’s packaging). Ensure that all strands are thoroughly coated. Leave the dye on for the recommended processing time, then rinse with cool water until the water runs clear. Follow up with a color-safe conditioner to seal the color and add moisture.
How can I maintain my purple hair color and keep my hair healthy after bleaching?
Maintaining vibrant purple hair requires a dedicated haircare routine. Use color-safe shampoo and conditioner specifically formulated for color-treated hair. These products are designed to gently cleanse your hair without stripping the color. Wash your hair less frequently, ideally only one or two times per week, to prolong the color’s vibrancy. When you do wash your hair, use cool water, as hot water can cause the dye to fade faster.
To keep your hair healthy after bleaching, prioritize hydration and protein. Use deep conditioning masks or hair oils regularly to replenish moisture and repair damage. Minimize heat styling, as heat can further damage bleached hair and cause color to fade. When you do use heat tools, apply a heat protectant spray. Consider using a color-depositing conditioner or shampoo to refresh the purple color between dye sessions and extend its lifespan.