Achieving the perfect blonde or vibrant colored hair often starts with bleach. Blue bleach powder, a popular choice among both professionals and DIY enthusiasts, is known for its ability to lift color while neutralizing brassy tones. But understanding what to mix with blue bleach powder is crucial for a successful and healthy hair lightening process. This article delves deep into the world of blue bleach, exploring its purpose, the essential mixing components, factors affecting the mixing ratio, alternative options, and vital safety precautions.
Understanding Blue Bleach Powder
Before diving into the mixing process, it’s important to grasp the purpose of blue bleach powder and how it differs from other types.
Blue bleach powder is formulated to lighten hair by oxidizing the melanin, which gives hair its natural color. The “blue” component serves as a toner, helping to counteract unwanted orange and yellow undertones that often appear during the bleaching process, especially in darker hair. This makes blue bleach a popular choice for achieving cooler blonde shades or preparing the hair for vibrant color applications.
The Essential Component: Developer
The most crucial element mixed with blue bleach powder is developer, also known as hydrogen peroxide. The developer acts as the activator for the bleach, initiating the oxidation process that lifts the hair’s color. The strength of the developer, measured in volumes, determines the lifting power and speed of the bleaching process.
Understanding Developer Volumes
Developer comes in various strengths, each with its specific purpose and potential impact on your hair. The most common volumes are 10, 20, 30, and 40.
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10 Volume Developer: This is the weakest strength and provides minimal lift. It’s ideal for deposit-only color, subtle lightening, or toning pre-lightened hair. It causes the least amount of damage.
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20 Volume Developer: A good all-around choice for lifting 1-2 levels and covering gray hair. It’s suitable for most hair types and provides a balance between lifting power and minimizing damage.
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30 Volume Developer: Offers significant lift, typically 2-3 levels. It’s often used for achieving lighter blonde shades and is suitable for those with darker starting hair colors. However, it can be more damaging than lower volume developers.
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40 Volume Developer: The strongest developer strength, providing the most lift (3+ levels). It is generally recommended only for experienced professionals due to its high potential for damage and scalp irritation. It is best for virgin hair that needs extreme lightening.
Choosing the right developer volume depends on several factors, including your current hair color, desired level of lift, hair thickness, and overall hair health. It’s always best to err on the side of caution and start with a lower volume if you’re unsure.
Mixing Ratios: Finding the Right Balance
The mixing ratio between blue bleach powder and developer is paramount for achieving the desired results while minimizing damage. The recommended ratio typically ranges from 1:1 to 1:3 (bleach powder to developer), depending on the brand of bleach and the desired consistency. Always refer to the manufacturer’s instructions on the bleach product packaging for the recommended ratio.
Why Mixing Ratios Matter
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Too little developer: The mixture may be too thick and difficult to apply evenly, resulting in uneven lifting. It can also dry out quickly, halting the lightening process prematurely.
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Too much developer: The mixture can be too runny and may drip or seep onto the scalp, causing irritation. It can also dilute the bleach, reducing its lifting power.
Consistency is Key
The ideal consistency of the bleach mixture should be similar to that of yogurt or a thick cream. This allows for easy and even application, ensuring that the bleach stays in place and processes effectively. Use a non-metallic bowl and applicator brush to mix the bleach and developer thoroughly until a smooth, creamy consistency is achieved.
Factors Affecting the Mixing Ratio and Processing Time
Several factors can influence the ideal mixing ratio and processing time for blue bleach powder. Understanding these factors can help you adjust your approach and achieve the best possible results.
Hair Type and Condition
Fine and damaged hair requires a gentler approach. Use a lower volume developer (10 or 20) and a slightly more diluted bleach mixture (e.g., 1:2 or 1:3). Coarse and healthy hair can typically tolerate a higher volume developer (20 or 30) and a slightly thicker bleach mixture (e.g., 1:1 or 1:2).
Starting Hair Color
Darker hair requires more lift to achieve the desired blonde shade. You may need to use a higher volume developer or process the bleach for a longer period. However, be cautious not to over-process the hair, which can lead to damage.
Desired Level of Lift
If you’re only looking to lift your hair a level or two, a lower volume developer and a shorter processing time will suffice. If you’re aiming for a dramatic transformation, you may need a higher volume developer and multiple bleaching sessions.
Environmental Factors
The temperature of your environment can also affect the processing time. Warmer temperatures can accelerate the bleaching process, while colder temperatures can slow it down. Adjust the processing time accordingly and monitor your hair closely.
Optional Additives: Enhancing the Bleaching Process
While developer is the essential mixing component, there are several optional additives that can enhance the bleaching process, protect your hair, and improve the overall results.
Bond Builders
Bond builders, such as Olaplex, Wellaplex, and L’Oréal Smartbond, are designed to protect and repair the hair’s internal structure during the bleaching process. They help to minimize damage, reduce breakage, and improve the overall health and strength of the hair. Bond builders are typically added directly to the bleach mixture according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Oils
Adding a small amount of oil, such as coconut oil or argan oil, to the bleach mixture can help to moisturize the hair and prevent it from drying out during the bleaching process. Oil also helps to protect the scalp from irritation. Use only a small amount of oil (e.g., 1-2 teaspoons) per bleach application.
Purple Shampoo/Toner
While not added directly to the bleach mixture, purple shampoo or toner are essential for neutralizing any remaining brassy tones after bleaching. Use a purple shampoo or toner according to the manufacturer’s instructions to achieve a cooler, more neutral blonde shade.
Alternatives to Blue Bleach Powder
While blue bleach powder is a popular choice, there are alternative options available, each with its own set of advantages and disadvantages.
White Bleach Powder
White bleach powder does not contain the blue toning pigments found in blue bleach. It provides a cleaner, more neutral lift, but it may require additional toning to neutralize brassy tones.
Clay Bleach
Clay bleach is a gentler option that is ideal for balayage and other freehand highlighting techniques. It has a thicker consistency that prevents bleeding and allows for precise application.
Bleach Baths
A bleach bath is a diluted form of bleach that is used to gently lighten the hair and remove unwanted tones. It is a less damaging alternative to full-strength bleach and is ideal for subtle lightening or color correction. Bleach baths typically involve mixing bleach powder, developer (usually 10 or 20 volume), shampoo, and water.
Safety Precautions: Protecting Your Hair and Scalp
Bleaching can be a harsh process, so it’s essential to take the necessary safety precautions to protect your hair and scalp.
Patch Test
Always perform a patch test before applying bleach to your entire head. Apply a small amount of the bleach mixture to a discreet area of skin (e.g., behind your ear or on your inner arm) and wait 24-48 hours to check for any allergic reactions or irritation.
Avoid Washing Hair Before Bleaching
Do not wash your hair for 24-48 hours before bleaching. The natural oils on your scalp will help to protect it from irritation.
Use Gloves
Always wear gloves when handling bleach to protect your skin from chemical burns.
Avoid Contact with Eyes
Avoid getting bleach in your eyes. If contact occurs, rinse immediately with plenty of water and seek medical attention.
Do Not Overlap
When applying bleach to regrowth, avoid overlapping onto previously bleached hair, as this can cause damage and breakage.
Monitor Processing Time
Check your hair frequently during the processing time to ensure that it is not becoming damaged or over-processed.
Rinse Thoroughly
Rinse the bleach out of your hair thoroughly with cool water after the processing time is complete.
Deep Condition
Follow up with a deep conditioning treatment to replenish moisture and repair any damage caused by the bleaching process.
Conclusion
Mastering the art of mixing blue bleach powder involves understanding the role of developer, the importance of precise mixing ratios, and the impact of various factors on the bleaching process. By taking the necessary safety precautions and considering alternative options and additives, you can achieve your desired hair color while minimizing damage and maintaining the health of your hair. Remember, when in doubt, consult a professional stylist for personalized advice and assistance. Proper mixing and application are crucial for achieving stunning results without compromising the integrity of your hair. Always prioritize hair health and safety throughout the lightening process.
What is the most common developer volume used with blue bleach powder?
The most frequently recommended developer volume to mix with blue bleach powder is 20 volume (6%). This volume offers a balance between lifting power and minimizing damage to the hair. It’s suitable for achieving a moderate level of lightening, typically lifting 1-2 levels, and is generally considered safer for at-home use, especially for those with finer or more fragile hair.
However, the ideal developer volume depends on several factors including the desired level of lift, your hair’s current color and health, and your hair type. A strand test is always crucial to determine how your hair will react. For darker hair or more significant lightening, a 30 volume (9%) developer might be used, but it increases the risk of damage and should be handled with care and appropriate timing.
Can I mix blue bleach powder with water?
No, you should absolutely never mix blue bleach powder with water. Bleach requires a developer to activate its lightening properties and to create the appropriate consistency for application. Water will not activate the bleach and can lead to an unpredictable and ineffective mixture, potentially causing uneven lightening or no lightening at all.
Furthermore, attempting to use water instead of a developer could create a dangerous reaction. The chemical processes involved in hair lightening require the specific ingredients and pH levels provided by developers. Using water disrupts this balance and may result in an uncontrollable and potentially harmful chemical reaction to your hair.
What if I only have a high-volume developer available?
If only a high-volume developer (like 40 volume) is available, it’s generally not recommended to use it with blue bleach powder, especially if you lack experience with hair lightening. High-volume developers lift color much faster, increasing the risk of over-processing, hair damage, and uneven results. The higher the volume, the more aggressively it lifts the hair, which can lead to breakage and dryness.
However, if you must use a 40 volume developer, extreme caution is necessary. Monitor the hair constantly during processing, significantly reduce the processing time, and consider applying a protein treatment afterward to help restore the hair’s strength. It is always better to buy the appropriate volume developer for your needs instead of risking hair damage with a product that is too strong.
How does developer volume affect the lifting power of blue bleach?
The developer volume directly affects the lifting power of blue bleach powder. A higher developer volume contains a higher concentration of hydrogen peroxide, which is the active ingredient that oxidizes the hair’s melanin (pigment) and lightens it. Therefore, a higher volume developer will lift more levels of color faster than a lower volume developer.
However, increased lifting power comes with increased risk of damage. While a 40 volume developer might lift several levels in one go, it’s also far more likely to cause breakage, dryness, and chemical burns compared to a 10 or 20 volume developer. It’s essential to balance the desired level of lift with the health and integrity of your hair.
Can I mix blue bleach with shampoo (bleach bath)?
Yes, you can mix blue bleach with shampoo to create a bleach bath, which is a gentler way to lighten hair. A bleach bath typically involves combining bleach powder, developer, and shampoo, creating a diluted lightening mixture. This method is ideal for subtle lightening, removing toner buildup, or correcting minor color imperfections.
When preparing a bleach bath, carefully measure the ingredients to maintain a balanced formula. A common ratio is 1 part bleach powder, 1 part developer (usually 10 or 20 volume), and 2 parts shampoo. Apply the mixture to damp hair, monitor the lifting process closely, and rinse thoroughly when the desired result is achieved. A bleach bath is generally less damaging than a full bleach application, but it’s still crucial to condition and moisturize the hair afterward.
What type of shampoo is best for a bleach bath?
For a bleach bath, it is generally best to use a clarifying shampoo or a mild, sulfate-free shampoo. A clarifying shampoo will help to lift any buildup or residue from the hair, allowing the bleach to penetrate more evenly. However, it can also be slightly more drying, so using it sparingly is important.
Alternatively, a sulfate-free shampoo is a gentler option that will cleanse the hair without stripping it of its natural oils. This is particularly beneficial for those with dry or damaged hair. Avoid shampoos that contain silicones or heavy conditioning agents, as these can create a barrier that prevents the bleach from working effectively.
Is it safe to mix blue bleach with bond-building additives?
Yes, it is generally safe and often recommended to mix blue bleach with bond-building additives like Olaplex, B3 Brazilian Bond Builder, or similar products. These additives work to protect and rebuild the disulfide bonds in the hair shaft, which are often damaged during the bleaching process. Adding a bond-building agent can significantly reduce breakage and improve the overall health of your hair after lightening.
Follow the instructions provided by the bond-building additive manufacturer regarding dosage and application. Typically, a specific amount of the additive is mixed directly into the bleach and developer mixture before application to the hair. While bond builders can help mitigate damage, they do not eliminate it entirely. It’s still essential to use appropriate developer volumes, monitor the hair carefully during processing, and provide post-bleach care with moisturizing and protein-rich treatments.