Bleaching your hair at home can be a rewarding and cost-effective way to achieve a lighter, brighter look. However, it’s crucial to understand the process and take the necessary precautions to minimize damage and achieve the desired results. This comprehensive guide will walk you through everything you need to know about bleaching your hair with developer, from choosing the right products to the aftercare routine.
Understanding Hair Bleach and Developer
At its core, bleaching hair involves a chemical process that lifts the natural pigment from your hair shaft. This is achieved through the combination of a bleaching agent, typically a powder or cream, and a developer.
The developer is hydrogen peroxide in varying strengths, measured in volumes. The volume indicates the strength of the developer and its ability to lift color. Common developer volumes are 10, 20, 30, and 40.
- 10 Volume Developer: Provides the least lift and is often used for depositing color or achieving subtle lightening. It is gentler on the hair and causes less damage.
- 20 Volume Developer: Offers moderate lift and is suitable for lifting a few shades lighter. It’s a good option for those with relatively healthy hair.
- 30 Volume Developer: Provides significant lift and is used for lifting several shades lighter. It’s generally recommended for those with darker hair or hair that is resistant to lightening.
- 40 Volume Developer: Provides the most lift and is only recommended for experienced users with very dark hair that is in good condition. It can cause significant damage if used incorrectly.
The bleach powder itself contains ingredients that, when mixed with the developer, create an oxidizing agent that breaks down the melanin (pigment) in your hair.
The Importance of Choosing the Right Developer
Selecting the correct developer volume is paramount to achieving your desired level of lightness while minimizing damage. Using a developer that is too weak might not lift enough color, while a developer that is too strong can cause breakage, dryness, and other forms of damage.
Consider your hair’s natural color, its current condition, and the level of lightness you want to achieve. If you are unsure, it’s always best to start with a lower volume developer and assess the results. You can always bleach again if needed, but you can’t undo the damage from using too strong of a developer.
Preparing for the Bleaching Process
Proper preparation is key to a successful and safe bleaching experience. This includes gathering the necessary supplies, conducting a strand test, and protecting your skin and clothing.
Gathering Your Supplies
Before you begin, make sure you have all the necessary items on hand. This will prevent you from having to stop mid-process and potentially compromise the results.
- Bleach Powder or Cream: Choose a high-quality bleach powder or cream from a reputable brand.
- Developer: Select the appropriate developer volume based on your hair color and desired level of lightness.
- Mixing Bowl: Use a non-metallic bowl for mixing the bleach and developer.
- Applicator Brush: This will help you apply the bleach evenly to your hair.
- Gloves: Protect your hands from the chemicals in the bleach.
- Old Towel: Drape an old towel around your shoulders to protect your clothing.
- Hair Clips: Use these to section your hair and keep it out of the way.
- Petroleum Jelly or Barrier Cream: Apply this to your hairline and ears to protect your skin from irritation.
- Toner (Optional): If you want to neutralize any unwanted yellow or orange tones, you will need a toner.
- Purple Shampoo and Conditioner: These will help maintain your blonde color and prevent brassiness.
- Deep Conditioner: Essential for restoring moisture to your hair after bleaching.
Conducting a Strand Test
A strand test is a crucial step that allows you to assess how your hair will react to the bleach before applying it to your entire head. This will help you determine the processing time and the resulting color.
To perform a strand test, cut a small, inconspicuous section of hair (e.g., from underneath) and apply the bleach mixture to it. Follow the instructions on the bleach packaging and check the strand every few minutes to monitor the color change. Once you have achieved the desired lightness, rinse the strand and assess its condition.
Protecting Yourself and Your Surroundings
Bleach can be harsh on the skin and clothing, so it’s important to take precautions. Wear old clothes that you don’t mind getting stained, and drape an old towel around your shoulders. Apply petroleum jelly or a barrier cream to your hairline and ears to protect your skin from irritation. Work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes.
The Bleaching Process: A Step-by-Step Guide
Once you have gathered your supplies and completed the necessary preparations, you are ready to begin the bleaching process. Follow these steps carefully to achieve the best results.
Mixing the Bleach and Developer
In a non-metallic bowl, mix the bleach powder or cream with the developer according to the instructions on the bleach packaging. The ratio of bleach to developer can vary depending on the product, so it’s crucial to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Typically, a ratio of 1:1 or 1:2 (bleach to developer) is used. The mixture should have a creamy consistency, similar to yogurt. Avoid making the mixture too runny, as it can drip and cause uneven lightening.
Sectioning Your Hair
Divide your hair into four equal sections using hair clips. This will make it easier to apply the bleach evenly and ensure that all strands are thoroughly saturated.
Applying the Bleach
Starting at the roots (unless you are doing a root touch-up), apply the bleach mixture to your hair using the applicator brush. Work your way through each section, ensuring that all strands are coated evenly.
When bleaching virgin hair (hair that has not been previously colored or treated), it’s best to start with the mid-lengths and ends, leaving the roots for last. The roots process faster due to the heat from your scalp, so applying the bleach there last will help prevent them from becoming too light.
If you are doing a root touch-up, apply the bleach only to the new growth, avoiding overlapping onto previously bleached hair. Overlapping can cause breakage and uneven color.
Processing Time
The processing time will vary depending on your hair color, the developer volume, and the desired level of lightness. Check the strand test regularly to monitor the color change.
Generally, the processing time should not exceed 50 minutes. Rinse the bleach out immediately if you experience any discomfort or irritation.
Rinsing and Shampooing
Once the processing time is complete, rinse your hair thoroughly with cool water until all traces of bleach are removed. Follow with a color-safe shampoo to gently cleanse your hair.
Toning (Optional)
If you want to neutralize any unwanted yellow or orange tones, you can use a toner. Choose a toner that is appropriate for your hair color and desired result. Apply the toner according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Deep Conditioning
Bleaching can be drying to the hair, so it’s essential to follow with a deep conditioning treatment. Apply a generous amount of deep conditioner to your hair and leave it on for at least 20 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with cool water.
Aftercare and Maintenance
Proper aftercare is crucial for maintaining the health and color of your bleached hair. This includes using the right products, protecting your hair from heat damage, and scheduling regular trims.
Using the Right Products
Choose shampoos, conditioners, and styling products that are specifically designed for color-treated hair. These products are formulated to be gentle and help preserve your hair color.
Purple shampoo and conditioner can help neutralize any unwanted yellow or orange tones and keep your blonde hair looking bright. Use these products once or twice a week, or as needed.
Protecting Your Hair from Heat Damage
Heat styling tools can cause damage to bleached hair, so it’s important to use them sparingly. When you do use heat styling tools, always apply a heat protectant spray to your hair first.
Scheduling Regular Trims
Regular trims are essential for preventing split ends and keeping your hair healthy. Aim to get your hair trimmed every 6-8 weeks.
Hydration is Key
Bleaching can strip your hair of its natural moisture, making it prone to dryness and breakage. Incorporate hydrating hair masks and leave-in conditioners into your routine to replenish moisture and keep your hair soft and manageable. Look for products containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and natural oils such as argan oil or coconut oil.
Troubleshooting Common Bleaching Issues
Even with careful planning and execution, issues can sometimes arise during the bleaching process. Here are some common problems and how to address them:
- Uneven Lightening: This can occur if the bleach is not applied evenly or if the processing time is not consistent. To fix uneven lightening, you may need to do a second bleaching session, focusing on the areas that are darker. Alternatively, a color correction appointment with a professional might be necessary.
- Brassy Tones: Brassy tones are common after bleaching, especially for those with darker hair. Toner and purple shampoo can help neutralize these tones.
- Hair Damage: Bleaching can cause damage to the hair, leading to dryness, breakage, and split ends. To minimize damage, use a lower volume developer, avoid over-processing, and follow with a deep conditioning treatment.
- Scalp Irritation: Some people may experience scalp irritation during the bleaching process. If you experience any discomfort or burning, rinse the bleach out immediately and consult a dermatologist if necessary. Applying a generous layer of coconut oil to your scalp the night before bleaching can create a protective barrier.
- Patchy Results: Patchy results can occur from an uneven application or previously colored hair creating a barrier. Ensure even saturation and consider a color remover before bleaching if dealing with significant color buildup. A professional consultation is always a good idea for correction.
When to Seek Professional Help
While bleaching your hair at home can be a rewarding experience, it’s not always the best option for everyone. If you have very dark hair, damaged hair, or are unsure about any aspect of the process, it’s best to seek professional help.
A professional stylist has the knowledge and experience to safely and effectively bleach your hair while minimizing damage. They can also provide personalized advice on aftercare and maintenance.
Furthermore, if you have a history of allergic reactions to hair dyes or chemicals, or if you have any scalp conditions, it’s essential to consult with a dermatologist before attempting to bleach your hair.
Bleaching your hair at home requires careful consideration and attention to detail. By understanding the process, preparing properly, and following these guidelines, you can achieve beautiful, blonde hair while minimizing damage. Remember to prioritize the health of your hair and seek professional help when needed. Good luck!
What volume developer should I use for bleaching my hair at home?
The developer volume you choose depends largely on your hair color and the desired level of lift. Lower volumes like 10 or 20 are best for subtle changes, touching up roots, or working with already lightened hair. These are less damaging but also less effective for significant lightening on darker hair.
For more dramatic lightening, such as going from dark brown to blonde, 30 or 40 volume developer is typically needed. However, these higher volumes pose a greater risk of damage, breakage, and scalp irritation. If you’re unsure, starting with a lower volume and doing multiple sessions is safer than over-processing your hair with a high volume developer.
How do I perform a strand test before bleaching my entire head?
A strand test is crucial to determine how your hair will react to the bleach and developer mixture. Select a small, hidden section of hair, ideally near the nape of your neck. Apply the bleach mixture to this section and follow the recommended processing time outlined in the product instructions.
Rinse the strand thoroughly, shampoo, and condition it. Evaluate the color, condition, and elasticity of the test strand. If the hair is excessively damaged or the color isn’t what you wanted, you’ll need to adjust your bleach mixture, developer volume, or processing time before applying it to your entire head.
What is the correct ratio of bleach powder to developer?
The correct bleach powder to developer ratio typically ranges from 1:1 to 1:2, depending on the bleach brand and your desired consistency. A 1:1 ratio results in a thicker consistency, which is suitable for precise application, while a 1:2 ratio creates a thinner consistency, making it easier to saturate the hair.
Always refer to the specific instructions provided with your bleach powder. Some brands may recommend slightly different ratios. Using the correct ratio is essential for achieving consistent lightening and minimizing damage.
How long should I leave bleach on my hair?
The processing time for bleach varies depending on your hair color, the desired level of lift, and the developer volume used. A lower volume developer will require a longer processing time than a higher volume developer to achieve the same results. Typically, the maximum processing time is around 50-60 minutes.
Regularly check the condition of your hair every 10-15 minutes during the processing time. You can gently stretch a strand of hair to assess its elasticity. If it feels gummy or breaks easily, rinse the bleach immediately, even if the desired color hasn’t been achieved. It is crucial to prioritize hair health over achieving a specific shade in one session.
What should I do to prepare my hair before bleaching?
Preparing your hair before bleaching can significantly minimize damage. Avoid washing your hair for at least 24-48 hours before bleaching, as the natural oils help protect the scalp and hair shaft. Do not use any heat styling tools like straighteners or curling irons for a week before bleaching.
Apply a deep conditioning treatment or hair mask a few days before bleaching to hydrate and strengthen your hair. Avoid using products containing sulfates or silicones, as they can create a barrier that interferes with the bleaching process.
How can I minimize damage when bleaching my hair?
Using a lower volume developer is one of the best ways to minimize damage. While it might take longer to achieve your desired lightness, it’s gentler on your hair. Incorporating a bond-building treatment, like Olaplex or similar products, into your bleach mixture can also help protect and repair hair bonds during the process.
Avoid overlapping bleach on previously lightened areas, as this can lead to breakage. Use coconut oil or another protective oil on your hair ends before bleaching to help prevent them from becoming excessively dry and damaged. After bleaching, deep condition your hair regularly and avoid heat styling as much as possible.
What aftercare is essential after bleaching my hair?
Immediately after bleaching, use a color-safe shampoo and conditioner specifically formulated for bleached or damaged hair. These products are designed to gently cleanse and hydrate your hair without stripping it of color. Incorporate a protein treatment into your routine to help rebuild the hair shaft.
Deep conditioning treatments and hair masks should become a regular part of your hair care routine, ideally used once or twice a week. Avoid heat styling as much as possible, and when you do use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray. Consider using a leave-in conditioner to provide extra moisture and protection.