Brassiness in hair is a common concern, particularly for those with blonde, highlighted, or light brown hair. These unwanted yellow or orange tones can appear over time due to oxidation, hard water, sun exposure, and even certain hair products. But fear not! You don’t have to live with brassy hair. This comprehensive guide will equip you with the knowledge and techniques to effectively tone brass out of your hair and restore your desired color.
Understanding Hair Brassiness: The Culprits Behind the Yellow
Before diving into solutions, it’s crucial to understand why brassiness develops in the first place. Brassiness is essentially the underlying warm tones of your hair peeking through as your hair color fades or becomes damaged.
Oxidation: This is a primary cause. When your hair is exposed to air, the color molecules gradually break down, revealing the underlying warm pigments (yellow, orange, and red).
Hard Water: Minerals like calcium and magnesium in hard water can deposit on the hair shaft, leading to a buildup that can cause brassiness and dullness.
Sun Exposure: The sun’s UV rays can damage the hair cuticle and accelerate the fading of hair color, allowing brassy tones to emerge.
Hair Products: Some shampoos, conditioners, and styling products contain ingredients that can contribute to brassiness over time.
Improper Bleaching: If your hair wasn’t lifted to the correct level during the bleaching process, underlying warm tones can resurface more quickly.
Heat Styling: Frequent use of heat styling tools without proper heat protection can damage the hair cuticle and lead to color fade, exposing brassy tones.
The Arsenal Against Brass: Toning Products and Techniques
Fortunately, a variety of products and techniques can effectively combat brassiness and restore your desired hair color. The key is to choose the right approach for your specific hair type and level of brassiness.
Purple Shampoo: Your First Line of Defense
Purple shampoo is a staple in the haircare routine of anyone with blonde or highlighted hair. Its vibrant purple pigment works on the principle of color theory: purple is opposite yellow on the color wheel, meaning it neutralizes yellow tones.
How Purple Shampoo Works: The purple pigments in the shampoo deposit onto the hair shaft, counteracting the yellow tones and creating a cooler, brighter appearance.
Choosing the Right Purple Shampoo: Purple shampoos vary in intensity. Start with a less pigmented formula if you have light blonde hair or are prone to dryness. For more stubborn brassiness, a more pigmented option may be necessary.
Using Purple Shampoo Effectively: Wet your hair thoroughly. Apply the purple shampoo, focusing on areas with the most brassiness. Let it sit for 2-5 minutes, or as directed on the product label. Rinse thoroughly and follow with a hydrating conditioner. Avoid overusing purple shampoo, as it can sometimes lead to a purplish or ashy tint, especially on very light blonde hair. Once or twice a week is usually sufficient.
Purple Conditioner and Masks: Added Toning Power
Purple conditioners and masks provide additional toning benefits and hydration. They are particularly helpful for those with dry or damaged hair that may be more prone to brassiness.
Benefits of Purple Conditioners and Masks: These products offer a more gentle toning effect compared to purple shampoo, while also providing deep conditioning and nourishment.
How to Use Purple Conditioners and Masks: After shampooing (with purple shampoo or a regular shampoo), apply the purple conditioner or mask to your hair. Leave it on for 5-10 minutes, or as directed on the product label. Rinse thoroughly.
Hair Toners: The Professional Touch
Hair toners are demi-permanent hair colors that are specifically designed to neutralize unwanted tones and adjust the overall color of your hair. They are typically used by professional stylists but can also be applied at home with caution.
Types of Hair Toners: Toners come in various shades and formulations to address different color concerns. Popular options include purple toners (for neutralizing yellow), blue toners (for neutralizing orange), and silver toners (for creating a cooler, ashier blonde).
Application of Hair Toners: Toners require careful application to avoid uneven results or unwanted color changes. It’s essential to follow the manufacturer’s instructions precisely. Typically, you’ll mix the toner with a developer and apply it to damp hair, focusing on the areas with the most brassiness. The processing time varies depending on the toner and the desired result. It’s highly recommended to consult with a professional stylist before using a toner at home, especially if you’re unsure about the process or the right toner for your hair.
Blue Shampoo: Conquering Orange Tones
While purple shampoo is effective for neutralizing yellow tones, blue shampoo is specifically formulated to combat orange brassiness.
When to Use Blue Shampoo: If your hair has warm, orange undertones, especially after bleaching or coloring, blue shampoo is your go-to solution.
How Blue Shampoo Works: The blue pigments in the shampoo neutralize the orange tones, creating a cooler, more balanced color.
Using Blue Shampoo Effectively: Follow the same instructions as with purple shampoo: wet your hair, apply the blue shampoo, let it sit for a few minutes, rinse thoroughly, and follow with a hydrating conditioner.
Preventing Brassiness: Proactive Haircare Habits
The best way to deal with brassiness is to prevent it from developing in the first place. By adopting proactive haircare habits, you can significantly reduce the risk of unwanted yellow or orange tones.
Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo: A Gentle Cleanse
Sulfates are harsh detergents that can strip the hair of its natural oils and fade hair color, contributing to brassiness. Opt for sulfate-free shampoos to cleanse your hair gently and preserve your color.
Protect Your Hair From the Sun: Shield Against Damage
Just as the sun can damage your skin, it can also damage your hair. Use a hair product with UV protection or wear a hat when spending time outdoors to shield your hair from the sun’s harmful rays.
Invest in a Water Filter: Combat Hard Water
If you live in an area with hard water, consider installing a water filter on your showerhead to remove minerals that can cause brassiness.
Minimize Heat Styling: Reduce Color Fade
Excessive heat styling can damage the hair cuticle and accelerate color fade. Minimize your use of heat styling tools or use them on a lower heat setting. Always apply a heat protectant spray before using any heat styling tools.
Deep Condition Regularly: Hydrate and Nourish
Dry, damaged hair is more prone to brassiness. Deep conditioning treatments can help to hydrate and nourish your hair, keeping it healthy and preventing color fade.
Avoid Chlorine: A Brassy Hair Enemy
Chlorine in swimming pools can react with the hair and cause it to turn brassy or even green. Wet your hair with clean water and apply a leave-in conditioner before swimming. Wear a swimming cap for added protection.
DIY Toning Treatments: Natural Remedies for Brassiness
While commercial toning products are effective, you can also try some DIY toning treatments using natural ingredients. These remedies are gentler on the hair and can help to maintain your color between salon visits.
Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse: Clarify and Brighten
Apple cider vinegar (ACV) can help to clarify the hair, remove buildup, and brighten blonde tones.
How to Use ACV Rinse: Mix 1-2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar with 1 cup of water. After shampooing and conditioning, pour the mixture over your hair, focusing on the areas with the most brassiness. Let it sit for a few minutes and then rinse thoroughly.
Lemon Juice Rinse: A Natural Lightener
Lemon juice can lighten hair and brighten blonde tones. However, use it sparingly, as it can be drying.
How to Use Lemon Juice Rinse: Mix equal parts lemon juice and water. Apply the mixture to your hair and let it sit in the sun for 30-60 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and follow with a deep conditioner. Be cautious when using lemon juice, as it can cause sun sensitivity.
Honey Mask: Hydrate and Brighten
Honey is a natural humectant, meaning it attracts and retains moisture. It can also help to brighten blonde hair and reduce brassiness.
How to Use Honey Mask: Mix honey with water or olive oil to create a paste. Apply the mixture to your hair and leave it on for 30-60 minutes. Rinse thoroughly.
When to Seek Professional Help: Knowing Your Limits
While many toning techniques can be done at home, there are situations where it’s best to consult with a professional stylist.
Significant Color Correction: If your hair has severe brassiness or you’re attempting a significant color change, a professional stylist can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best course of action.
Damaged Hair: If your hair is severely damaged, attempting to tone it yourself can lead to further damage. A professional stylist can provide treatments to repair your hair and then safely tone it.
Unsure About Products or Techniques: If you’re unsure about which products to use or how to apply them, it’s always best to seek professional advice to avoid unwanted results or damage.
Previous Coloring Issues: If you’ve had issues with previous hair coloring attempts, consulting a professional will help prevent further complications.
Maintaining Your Toned Hair: Long-Term Care
Once you’ve successfully toned your hair, it’s essential to maintain your color with proper haircare habits.
Regular Toning: Use purple shampoo or other toning products regularly to maintain your desired color and prevent brassiness from returning.
Hydration: Keep your hair hydrated with regular deep conditioning treatments.
Protection: Protect your hair from the sun, heat, and hard water.
Professional Touch-Ups: Schedule regular touch-up appointments with your stylist to maintain your color and address any emerging brassiness.
By understanding the causes of brassiness and implementing the appropriate toning techniques and preventative measures, you can achieve and maintain your dream hair color, free from unwanted yellow or orange tones.
What causes brassiness in hair?
Brassiness in hair, those unwanted yellow or orange tones, is primarily caused by oxidation. When you lighten your hair, whether through bleaching or coloring, you’re stripping away the natural pigment. This exposes the underlying warm tones, which are naturally present in most hair. Sun exposure, hard water with mineral deposits, and certain hair products can further accelerate this oxidation process, leading to brassiness over time.
Environmental factors also play a significant role. Pollution and chlorine from swimming pools can cling to the hair shaft and react with the remaining pigment, exacerbating the yellowing effect. Furthermore, heat styling tools, such as flat irons and curling irons, can contribute to brassiness by damaging the hair cuticle and allowing the underlying warm tones to become more prominent. Proper hair care and protection are essential to combat these factors.
How does purple shampoo work to neutralize brassiness?
Purple shampoo works based on the principles of color theory. Purple is the opposite of yellow on the color wheel, so when purple pigment is deposited onto brassy hair, it neutralizes the yellow tones. This effectively cancels out the yellow, leaving your hair looking cooler and brighter. It’s a temporary fix, however, as the purple pigment doesn’t permanently alter the hair’s underlying color.
The strength of the purple pigment and the amount of time you leave the shampoo on will determine the degree of neutralization. Overuse can lead to a purple or lavender tint, particularly on very light blonde or porous hair. Therefore, it’s crucial to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and monitor your hair’s color closely during each application. Using a moisturizing conditioner afterward is also recommended to prevent dryness.
How often should I use purple shampoo?
The frequency of purple shampoo use depends on your hair color, the level of brassiness, and the product’s potency. For most blondes and those with highlighted hair, using purple shampoo once or twice a week is typically sufficient to maintain a cool tone and prevent excessive brassiness. However, if your hair is very light blonde or prone to absorbing pigment quickly, you may only need to use it every other week or less.
Overuse of purple shampoo can dry out your hair and even leave a purple tint, especially on porous strands. Pay attention to how your hair responds and adjust the frequency accordingly. If you notice your hair becoming dry or dull, reduce the number of times you use purple shampoo per week. It’s always best to err on the side of caution and gradually increase usage as needed to achieve the desired results.
Are there alternatives to purple shampoo for toning hair?
Yes, several alternatives to purple shampoo can help tone brassy hair. Blue shampoo is designed to counteract orange tones and is often a better choice for brunettes or those with darker blonde shades experiencing more orange than yellow. Hair glosses, whether applied professionally or at home, deposit color and add shine while neutralizing unwanted tones.
Another option is to use a purple or blue hair mask, which provides deeper conditioning along with toning benefits. Additionally, some leave-in conditioners and styling products contain subtle purple or blue pigments to help maintain a cool tone between washes. For more persistent brassiness, a professional color correction service is often the most effective solution.
What are some common mistakes to avoid when using purple shampoo?
One common mistake is using purple shampoo too frequently. This can lead to dryness, dullness, and even a purple or lavender tint, especially on light blonde or porous hair. Always follow the product instructions and start with less frequent use, adjusting as needed based on your hair’s response. Another mistake is leaving the shampoo on for too long, which intensifies the purple pigment and increases the risk of over-toning.
Failing to use a moisturizing conditioner after purple shampoo is another frequent oversight. Purple shampoo can be drying, so a good conditioner is essential to replenish moisture and prevent breakage. Additionally, neglecting to wear gloves when applying purple shampoo can stain your hands. Finally, using purple shampoo on already over-processed or damaged hair can exacerbate dryness and damage.
How can I prevent brassiness from occurring in the first place?
Preventing brassiness starts with proper hair care practices. Using sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners can help protect your hair color and prevent it from stripping away the toning pigments. Limiting exposure to direct sunlight, chlorine, and hard water is also crucial, as these elements can contribute to oxidation and brassiness. Wearing a hat outdoors and using a swim cap in the pool can provide added protection.
Incorporating products with UV protection into your hair care routine is another effective way to prevent brassiness. Regularly using deep conditioning treatments can help keep your hair healthy and hydrated, which minimizes the likelihood of brassiness. Lastly, minimize the use of heat styling tools, and when you do use them, always apply a heat protectant spray to shield your hair from damage.
When should I seek professional help for brassy hair?
If you’ve tried purple shampoo and other at-home remedies without success, it may be time to seek professional help. Persistent brassiness can indicate an underlying issue, such as uneven color lifting or damage to the hair cuticle. A professional colorist can accurately assess your hair’s condition and recommend the most effective treatment plan.
Additionally, if you’ve inadvertently over-toned your hair with purple shampoo or are experiencing significant color banding, a professional can correct the color and restore your hair to its desired shade. They can also provide personalized advice on maintaining your color and preventing brassiness in the future. Don’t hesitate to consult a professional if you’re unsure how to proceed or if you’re unhappy with the results you’re achieving on your own.